Showing posts with label district six museum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label district six museum. Show all posts

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Last Day - September 6, 2006

(1) One more trip to District Six Museum. More time with Noor. He talks about the word, “Boss.” He then points to the sky, and says,”I have only one Boss.”

(2) I pray here more than I have in years.

(3) For the first time, SAJ and I separate. I’m looking for St. George’s Cathedral and walk maybe a mile out of the way. Hopefully I got some great pictures. I am so sweaty and tired and everything is packed so I can’t change. It’s going to be a lovely flight home.









(4) Everyone at the hotel seems genuinely happy to have met us and sad to see us go. It must be SAJ.

(5) Easy drive to the airport.

(6) Great porter helping us with the luggage. He is a 5'6" soccer player from J’burg. This is just his day job.

(7) SAJ really messed up the luggage thing and must repack.

(8) I enjoy this immensely but I stay quiet as a good friend should do.

(9) Found a smoking lounge at the Cape Town Airport but it was closed for renovation. Walked in anyway. Two guys working. They didn’t seem to notice me. And I smoke to my heart’s content.

(10) Take off!

(11) Patches and Nicorette.

(12) Cape Town to London – 12 hours

(13) Heathrow – the biggest mall in the world – Tiffany’s, Herrod’s, Gucci’s etc. It seems obscene.

(14) London to SFO. This last leg of flight seems to take FOREVERRRRR.

(15) There it is, the Golden Gate Bridge. We are back!

(16) Caresa takes me home.

(17) My wife has food, iced tea, and vodka in the freezer. All waiting for me with a love note on each one. She will be home soon.

Family, blood, humanity.
Home

Saturday, September 1, 2007

Jack Reporting #4-2 District Six Museum

(1) 15 Rand to enter the place. Quiet. Reverential. A woman at the reception desk looking happy to see us. A sign in visitor book. Typical museum stuff.

(2) We meet Noor…our guide. He’s busy and asks us to wait for a few minutes. So we look around.

(3) A pyramid of street signs from the destroyed streets…saved.

(4) A map on the floor with names showing where the displaced used to live.

(5) I’m sure SAJ has done better at the history of District Six, so I’ll just add these few observations…

(5-a) I am reminded of Japantown in SF.

(5-b) Noor’s grandfather had 30 children. What’s that about!?

(5-c) A remarkable installation of a District Six home and its artifacts that have been semi-plastered into a wall with Apartheid laws printed over it all.



(5-d) Stairs…

(5-e) and this is it. In the back, a daycare. A museum with a living daycare center. Children at lunch singing their grace… Laughing and eating their meals to the sound of their teacher singing, “food is good, we love food.” The past and the future all in one.

(6) What is “Colour”? There was a black police force, a coloured police force, and a white police force all enforcing the Apartheid law. District Six was raised by the people of colour against the people of colour. That’s a hard one for me. I am so American and white.

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Video tour of District Six Museum:

Jack Reporting #4

(1) Just saw a commercial on TV that started with "Are you South African and still having issues with colour? Then get this issue of STYLE!" And they showed pages from the magazine and talked about articles concerning fashion, interior design, and this year's style trend. You gotta be f@#%ing me.

(2) What is "Colour" and what does it really mean to us? I mean REALLY?

(3) They just announced on South African News that the cost of anti-viral AIDS drugs are expected to rise 500% over the next few years. It's just another form of genocide if you ask me.

(4) Bacon is still great.

(5) The hotel we are staying in makes us turn in our room keys before we leave the building and the locals are telling us to be careful on the street.

(6) I get what they are inferring, but it doesn't seem that dangerous.

(7) SAJ needed to do currency exchange and it's like Fort Knox at the banks here. You push a red button, and wait until it turns green and then the sliding door opens and then you walk in and the door shuts behind you. You then push another red button and wait for the light to turn green and then another door opens and then you enter the bank.

(8) And then they tell you that they don’t do currency exchange.

(9) So you try to leave but there are more buttons and two people can never be in the same cubicle at the same time. What are they trying to say?

(10) Just passed a South African Woolworth. It reminds us of the lunch counter arrests, boycotts of Woolworth and the United States of the 60’s.

(11) But this is a very upscale Woolworth. They sell lattes.

(12) What was the other five and dime? Kreisges?

(13) It took us a while, but we find the District Six Museum.

Friday, August 31, 2007

The District Six Museum

Today we went to the District Six Museum and we met Noor, the founder of the museum. So what, or more appropriately where is District Six? District Six is now a large empty area on a hillside in Capetown, it was a thriving neighborhood. Noor is a South African man of Indian descent. He is sixty two years old, his story and the story of District Six are inextricably linked.

District Six was a place where all kinds of people lived. Muslim, Jew, Christian, Hindu, Colored, Black, but no one who was White. That was the problem. The area was a prime location, looking out over Cape Town towards the water. In the early Sixties the government sent out notices to the residents of District Six that they were living in violation of the law and that the district was to become an all white area, they were told to move, they had lost ownership of their property, and it would be bulldozed. Now the impact of that is a bit abstract, until you talk to someone who experienced it.

Noor was born in a house in District Six. This house was his family's home in South Africa since they had been here. His entire life was contained in this area. He stood across the street and watched as the bulldozer came and transformed his family's home into a pile of rubble. He wept as he watched all that his parents had worked a lifetime to build being destroyed. He spoke of a time when people of different religions all celebrated their friend's holidays, how they attended the various places of worship and prayed together out of mutual respect for the religious beliefs of their friends and neighbors. He told how families were broken up. A Colored man is married to a black woman, they have three children, the children are dark. The Colored father is moved to a Colored township, his Black wife and Black children are moved to a Black township, to visit them he is required by law to go to the police station and get a permit for each visit. This is the madness of Apartheid, this is the world of our play.

There is enormous irony here, today South Africa wants to be a kind of multicultural model and yet they had that model in the early sixties in District Six and they didn't value it, in fact, they destroyed it. The demolition of District Six is the backdrop of the world of The Blood Knot. The world of our play is a world in which color means everything. Where you can live, what you can do, who you can see, also how you are seen by the world. Black people were required by law to carry a "passbook," other people carried identification cards indicating their racial category, and this was required of all South Africans, but for black South Africans the circumstance was a little different. If you were black you had to have your passbook on your person at all times. If a policeman asked to see it and you didn't have it, you were arrested and fined, and if you couldn't pay the fine you were imprisoned until it was paid. Your skin color was the fence around your life, you couldn't go over it or under it, you had to live inside that fence.

Today District Six is an urban wasteland, no one lives there. Many want to see it established as a monument park, so the injustices of the past are never forgotten. Perhaps they will succeed, perhaps not.

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Pictures from the District Six Museum: